This kit is designed for a minimum 15″ rim, since the discs are 268x10mm. For those who are interested, here is the list of parts necessary to complete it: Right caliper: 8E0615424B Left caliper: 8E0615423B Caliper supports: 8E0615425 Brake pads: TRW GDB1330 The screws securing the calipers to the plates are 10×1, 25×25 (not included) The hub must be ground to 145.9mm Rear discs for Sharan, Galaxy, Alhambra: Bendix 562057B Hoses: 8E0611775N (they are not essential, the plates can be mounted so that the calipers are in front of the wheel, and so they are not necessary) VW Vento handbrake cables (1613mm): Lucas GCH1656 (They are a little long and you have to insert a bushing into the handbrake tensioner, as you will see in the photos, but it fits well and works included in the kit) As always, it is necessary to mention that there are many compatible brands. You can find them on any spare parts website. It is necessary to mount 15″ minimum wheels and for those who want to put Jeep sheet metal wheels, comment that there is a model in which the calipers rub and do not fit well. The same goes for the typical aluminum Ronals.
This kit is for mounting ventilated discs with floating calipers on vans after 86. The previous ones are different, since they have double piston calipers and the distances are different. The discs are 314x25mm from Audi OEM reference 4F0 615 301 D. The 57mm calipers are also from the VAG group, you can find them on the Audi 100, also on some A6 (C4 and C5), OEM references 4A0 615 123 A and 4A0 615 124 A As always, make sure that the references are correct, or else you will have to take the OEM collet holders 4A0 615 125 A separately (it has 94mm between anchoring centers). The hub (the original disc) must be turned and left at 133.90mm, so that the new disc fits in) The brake pads are the OEM Reference 8D0 698 151 A As always, there are equivalents in many brands: Bosch, Bendix, TRW …The entire kit is designed for 15-inch rims, both the discs and the calipers come from cars that mount them on 15-inch rims, but there are a couple of customers who have told me that they do not fit their Jeep sheet metal rims. (there are several apparently identical models but with different widths and therefore different throats), and the same thing happens with some 15 Borbet and Ronal.
This kit is very simple. It involves buying some 280×22 TRW DF2806 discs, which fit well into the hubs without touching them, and looking for some TRW BHW202 calipers, with TRW BDA214 supports, which can be found in many cars; Seat Toledo 1, Golf, Passat, Audi A80... and they have practically the same fixing level as the original VW T3. They have a stamped secondary number, it is 32323536. The difference in measurement between centers is corrected because they have the same external dimension and therefore by placing some good 12-9 screws with a fine pitch and 12x150x75 metric, they leave it in their site and solved. They do not move forward or backward.
The T3 gear levers are not known for their precision, precisely… that is why, as part of the upgrade, we propose these two acetal guides. This material is guaranteed for life. In the photos you can see some that are about 20 years old and next to them the acetal ones. The originals, apart from being deformed, have a lot of play. The references that they replace are 251711207E and 251711207D. Depending on the year, it has one or the other. Choose yours below. If you have any doubts, look at the front brakes, if they have a floating caliper it is Post, if they have a double piston fixed caliper it is Pre.
The objective of these plates is to be able to mount a 2kw starter motor from BOSCH to replace ours, which is already a bit obsolete and even in the best of cases it is a bit difficult to start. Even if you have a good starter motor, the plate is interesting because it doesn't take up anything, you never know when you may have a problem, and it is much easier to find a starter motor from the VAG group in a scrapyard than one from a VW T3. The reference is the BOSCH – 02A911023R, but you can find equivalence in other brands since it is a widely used model. The plates only work for diesel models. These plates are, as always, made of 7075 aluminum, for aeronautical use, and the central hole is eccentric, so that the motor is perfectly adjusted to the flywheel.
As there is no rear stabilizer bar and the engine is in the back, on a road with a crosswind, with curves, overtaking (either your own or someone else's) or even a simple roundabout, dangerous situations can occur due to the change in load support. When empty, it may not be very noticeable, but if we carry camping equipment, a fiber roof... it can be really risky. This is the basic kit, without a bar. So everyone can look for a new or used one, as they are interested or as best suits their budget, being cheaper than if we have to look for and send the part ourselves. There are kits for 19mm and 21mm thick bars. Choose yours so we can send you the corresponding silent blocks.
It is a complete kit that includes everything you need to raise the van 4cm. By ordering the entire kit at once, the price is more advantageous. It includes the following: 4 shims for the 25mm springs 4 shims for the shock absorbers (specify the thread pitch or brand of the front ones) 4 CV joint shims with the longest screws in 12-9 quality 2 angular shims for the ball joints, with 12-9 quality screws The assembly instructions are in the box of each component
When ordering, please leave a message with your desired height. There are 10, 15, and 25mm for the front and 15 and 25 for the rear. Keep in mind that you have to multiply the size of the riser by 1.5 to know how much the body will rise, so the 15mm rises about an inch, and the 25mm rises about 4cm… If you can’t find the option you’re looking for, or need a custom one, send an email to slowworks.vans@gmail.com
Se compran por unidad. Incluye 1 suplmento, 6 tornillos más largos con la dureza de los originales y 6 arandelas AET como las que llevan de origen. Ésto es para todos los que levantamos la furgo, tengan o no una Syncro. Como sabéis, al levantar la furgo se plantean muchos problemas; amortiguadores, homocinéticas, inercias, estabilidad, frenada… unos tienen fácil solucion y otros dificil y costosa. Es bastante habitual, al levantar la furgo, que con el tiempo se nos estropee algún palier: Por que?? Pues por varios motivos: -El primero es que ya no trabaja en el ángulo habitual, sino que lo forzamos a trabajar en un ángulo más abierto, más cerca del límite, por lo que en las curvas, rotondas, baches… la homocinética puede hacer tope e ir «comiendo» las pistas de rodadura de las bolas. Por desgracia, la única forma de cambiar el ángulo de trabajo, es poner homocinéticas nuevas. Las de la T3 normal y las de la Syncro de 14″ tienen un ángulo de trabajo de 17º. La única posibilidad de aumentar sería montar las del Porsche 924-944 que son equivalentes y además tienen un ángulo de 22º… aunque es una solución un poco cara. -El segundo motivo es que al levantar, estiramos los palieres. Si alguna vez habéis tenido una homocinética cerca habréis visto que se mueve hacia dentro y hacia fuera. Ésto es para absorber los movimientos de la rueda hacia arriba y hacia abajo. Que ocurre?? Que si levantamos la furgo, acortamos el recorrido, y cuando la rueda baja, hace tope enseguida… Todo ésto lo solucionamos con los suplementos de homocinética.
When assembling the spring supplements, we noticed that the upper arm was too inclined, and when lifting the van, either with supplements or with longer springs, it quickly adopts an angle that is too sharp. This can be corrected with angular supplements between the arm and the ball joint. Choose whether they are for 2WD or Syncro, because the screws are different. See PDF below. On some internet pages you can find straight supplements. The main difference is that the straight ones do not correct the working angle of the ball joints, so when working in extension they come to a stop and end up gaining slack in a few hundred km…
They are used to make use of the shock absorbers you already have when lifting the van. They are removed, screwed onto the top of the shock absorbers and re-assembled. This way you avoid them reaching the limit of extension and breaking. There are three different threads. Choose yours below.
Like the front ones, they are used to use the shock absorbers you already have when lifting the van. They are placed between the arm and the shock absorber and raise the position 4cm so that they do not end up breaking when extended. They are used for models from T2B and T3/T25. From now on, the parts will be zinc plated, instead of painted, to completely prevent rust.
The Airlock, or ventilation closure, blocks the tailgate, leaving it ajar, allowing air circulation to avoid heat in the T3 when it is parked, if we leave animals inside, to sleep in the summer... the one sold in other stores me They commented that it was too long and that not one, but both arms could be put inside the van, so we have manufactured this other one, which is 5cm shorter and does not allow the entry of the arm.
Seeing that thieves are plentiful, and that our vans are increasingly more expensive but have locks that are not too difficult to open, we have prepared this anti-theft device to block the clutch pedal. It does not take up much space because it is flat, and yet it is very resistant. It is another way to persuade the potential thief. Includes two stickers for the windows It is painted with oven-baked red paint, so that it can be seen, and includes two stickers for the windows. The lock is placed directly on the anti-theft device, and is included in the price. It may vary from the image, depending on availability.
This safe with combination lock (it can also be ordered with a key) is very easy to install. You only have to remove the seat (if it is fixed, the rotating one is not necessary) and screw it to the structure. In this way, you take advantage of all the available space, which is a lot… It allows the use of the seat with the original guides without any problem, and the rotation in the case of a rotating one.
Sold individually. 1 plate for a belt, with the hardware included. The belt required is 4m long. Available at Areacamper together with the trims.
Here you have an organizing panel for the rear area of the van. It is placed covering the rear glass and can be riveted or screwed. It allows you to place a multitude of objects, to have things closer at hand when you sleep, such as your cell phone or a bottle of water, place some pockets, a blanket, a sleeping bag... You can put things that we normally carry in the closets, leaving room for more things.
With these hydraulic lifts, you will lift the roof effortlessly. You have three powers to choose from depending on your needs: 200N - Low intensity. If you just want a little help to lift your roof. 400N - Moderate, if you carry a solar panel and/or roof bars. 600N - Strong. For those who carry a spare wheel, kayak, trunk...
To protect the sides of the van from possible impacts, and to be able to lift with the Hi-Lift calmly (our jack is a bit dangerous with that cylindrical anchor...), we have prepared some footpegs / heel pads with a round or square section of 50mm x 3mm wall. They are zinc plated and then oven painted, so even if they are rubbed with the jack they will not rust.
The kit includes 2 plates like the ones in the photo (for one bar, for two bars you have to buy 2 kits), with all the stainless steel hardware, as seen in the photo. If you have any questions, send an email to: slowworks.vans@gmail.com
The snorkel helps the vehicle breathe in the cleanest air possible. When we drive on tracks, dust can block the air filter, so the ideal is for the intake to be as high as possible. Using it does not mean that the vehicle can be submerged or that the engine cannot be damaged by water. To do this, it is recommended to install a cyclone filter (not included). Everything necessary to replace the original section is sold, maintaining the standard evacuator. Separately you can buy the rest of the section for complete assembly.
It replaces the original elbow where the water evacuator goes and the reinforced foam section that is before the filter. It includes an aluminum reducer, 1 meter of neoprene tube and the corresponding clamps. It must be completed with a cyclone filter, since it does not evacuate the water. Choose whether it is for a Diesel or Gasoline engine.
Wheel carrier made of 3/4 inch tubular steel and 3mm sheet metal. It is completely adjustable as it has two unibal ball joints at its ends. It also has a hydraulic system to keep it open. The finish is now plastic coated. Lifetime warranty. You can download the certificate below, along with the assembly instructions.
This accessory allows you to carry a trunk, or two jerrycans, or anything you can fit on a platform (the base measures 475x340). It also has a sliding tray (now made of aluminum) that you can use as a cooking support. It can be placed on the standard wheel rack. The finish is now plastic coated. Lifetime warranty. You can download the certificate below, along with assembly instructions.
If you want to turn your spare wheel into a useful space, this is your accessory. It holds tools, a water hose, a cable to connect to 220V, straps, gloves... You can clear out an interior cupboard and put in anything that might be outside. The fixing is done with tensioners on an interior plate. Now the finish is with a plastic coating. Lifetime guarantee. You can download the certificate below, along with the assembly instructions. Send an e-mail if you prefer the lock with a key.
If you want to turn your spare wheel into a useful space, this is your accessory. It fits tools, the water hose, the cable to connect to 220, straps, gloves... You can clear out an interior closet and put anything that could be outside. Send an email if you prefer key closure.
